A passion for climbing can be born at a very young age. Watching little ones move nimbly on the wall is inspiring, but as coaches and parents, a crucial question arises: how do we guide the athletic development of these young talents safely and effectively, ensuring their love for the sport endures? The key lies in a long-term perspective, avoiding the rush for immediate performance and understanding the unique phases of their growth.

In this post, we’ll break down the importance of long-term planning, demystify strength training in children, and explore the biological turning point every youth climbing coach should know: Peak Height Velocity (PHV).

Developing Climbers, Not Premature Champions

Athletic development, in any individual, should be considered from a long-term perspective, and this vision is even more important in young athletes. It’s essential to conceptualize their sporting life as a prolonged process, avoiding unnecessary acceleration of stages or the pursuit of high performance at early ages.

This approach is justified by the inherent risks of accelerated progression, which include a high potential for injuries and the possibility of dropping out of the sport. Applying excessive training loads, both in duration and intensity, can be counterproductive. The ability to withstand high-demand training requires gradual development, which involves not only physical evolution but also the cultivation of intrinsic motivation and genuine commitment to the sport.

Strength in Childhood: Demystifying Old Prejudices

Historically, strength training in children has been the subject of debate and skepticism, wrongly associated with risks to growth and development. However, it’s crucial to highlight that these beliefs are unfounded and lack scientific basis. On the contrary, current evidence supports that strength training, when properly implemented, is beneficial at all stages of athletic development, including childhood and adolescence. Far from inhibiting growth, strength training promotes osteogenesis (bone formation), favoring healthy bone development.

Key Considerations for Young Climbers:

Technical Priority: Before introducing advanced exercises like no-feet moves or campus board, ensure the athlete has the necessary skill to control their body weight on various angles and types of holds.
Adapted Holds: Use larger, adapted holds, avoiding small crimps to minimize stress on developing joints.
Quality over Quantity: Strictly control training loads, working with low volumes and prioritizing quality of execution.

PHV: The Biological Milestone That Makes the Difference

Peak Height Velocity (PHV) is a crucial biological milestone during puberty. It represents a fundamental indicator of biological maturity and marks the onset of significant physiological and hormonal changes. This reference point divides long-term athletic development into three main phases:

Pre-PHV phase: Before the growth spurt.
PHV phase: The approximate year of maximum height growth.
Post-PHV phase: The years following the growth spurt.

You can estimate PHV with free tools using anthropometric data, though the most precise method is a wrist X-ray. Generally, PHV occurs between ages 10–14 for girls (average 12) and 12–16 for boys (average 14).

Why is it crucial to assess PHV?

Minimizing Injury Risk: During the PHV year and the following year, there is an elevated risk of stress fractures in the growth plates (epiphyseal), as they are not yet fully ossified. Injuries at this stage can lead to dropping out of sport, so proper training management is vital.
Optimizing Athletic Performance: Knowing the PHV allows for more precise training periodization, based on sensitive maturational phases for developing specific capacities.

What to Avoid During PHV?

Stress fractures during PHV are mainly related to power training, i.e., training that involves high stress, high intensities, and especially the application of force at high speed. In climbing, this translates to:

Limit boulders at the limit on very small holds.
Avoid weighted training on small holds.
Avoid campus board exercises with small rungs and no feet.
Avoid activities that generate significant impact on the joints.

However, this does not imply a total ban; for example, no-feet climbing can be done with caution and using adapted holds that minimize joint stress.

Pre- and Post-PHV Training: Hormonal Differences

Post-PHV training is distinguished by significant hormonal changes: a notable increase in estrogen in girls and testosterone in boys. Testosterone, in particular, plays a crucial role in muscle mass development, recovery, and mood.

Sensitive Maturational Phases: Harnessing Potential

Sensitive maturational phases are optimal periods to enhance certain physical capacities and skills:

Overall Strength:
- Girls: After PHV and before menarche.
- Boys: Approximately 12–18 months after PHV, coinciding with the testosterone peak.
Grip Strength: Delaying specific training is key to avoid injuries in the finger growth plates. It can be started progressively two years after PHV.
Oxidative Endurance: At the start of PHV (girls 10–11; boys 12–13).
Non-Oxidative Endurance: After PHV (girls 11–13; boys 13–16).
Flexibility: Pre-PHV stage (generally 6–10 years).
Technique and Coordination: Before PHV (girls 8–11; boys 9–12).
Speed (Dynos, Coordination): Pre-PHV (girls 6–8; boys 7–9).

It is essential to adapt training to these sensitive phases, always with a long-term, progressive, and controlled perspective, avoiding premature high intensities. Also, we should not focus exclusively on physical capacities, but also on the development of movement skills, tactical, and strategic aspects.

The LTAD Model: A Framework for the Future Climber

The Long-Term Athlete Development model (LTAD), based on the review by Granacher et al. (2016), offers a conceptual framework for youth athletic development. The Canadian Climbing Federation adapted this model, providing valuable guidance for coaches of young athletes.

LTAD seeks to unify physical development with psychomotor and mental aspects, offering practical guidelines to adapt training to each maturational phase. Its eight stages of development cover from “Active Start” (0–6 years) to “Winning for a Living” (18+ years), emphasizing a holistic approach that goes beyond just physical qualities.

Conclusion: Investing in Tomorrow

Training young climbers is a responsibility that goes beyond the daily session. It requires a long-term vision, knowledge of biological growth phases such as PHV, and the application of intelligent planning adapted to each stage of development. By prioritizing safety, gradual progression, and a comprehensive approach that includes technical and psychological skills, we will be laying the foundations not only for future elite climbers but for individuals who will enjoy the sport throughout their lives. Let’s invest in the future of our young athletes!

Keys to Sustainable and Safe Athletic Development in Young Climbers